Keen to discover some of France's lesser-known attractions, Susie Kelly, her husband Terry and their two dogs embarked on a 10,000-kilometre journey, where they encountered exploding gherkins, killer waves, and sinister submarines. They crossed the historic paths of Charlemagne, Vauban and William the Bastard, and the battlefields of two world wars. The camper van's exhaust falling off and one of the dogs trying to eat the vehicle and its contents did nothing to spoil their magical trip. A cornucopia of sights, legends and history, their journey was enhanced by the kind, charming and quirky characters they met on the way.